Leaks can come from:
The wax seal
The connection from the tank to the bowl
The connection from the supply tube
Leaking inside from the tank to the bowl
Leaking inside from flowing over the overflow tube
There are other toilet repair problems, but these are the most common.
The wax seal:
Often the toilet will either have water on the floor or through the floor to the ceiling below. To fix this you need to get a new wax ring and t-bolts. Turn off the supply water, flush it, sponge out as much water as you can from the tank and from the bowl, loosen the t-bolts off, loosen off the supply tube, lift the toilet off the floor, turning it upside down beside you, scrape off the old wax seal from it and from the floor, remove the old t-bolts, put in new t-bolts, and wax ring, set toilet down on top of the flange, press gently to the floor allowing the wax to create a seal, tighten t-bolts, go from one bolt to the other 5 ¼ turns each, DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN, hook up the supply tube, turn on water, flush toilet, check for leaks.
That's it, normally I would charge about $150 for coming to someone's place to do this, so you just saved that money.
The connection from the tank to the bowl: In this case you might need a new spud washer and tank bolts. Or in some cases this happens and the tank or bowl has cracked over time. The first thing you need to do is find where the leak is coming from. Does it leak all the time or only when the toilet is flushed? If it leaks all the time the tank may be cracked. These are quite often hairline cracks, try and wipe dry the tank, then feel with your hands where the water is coming from. Sometimes it might be condensation as well, if this is the case you will need to line your tank with a Styrofoam insulation, you can buy this at your hardware store. If you find water is coming from a small crack you will need a new toilet, if it is newer you might be able to get the matching tank still.
To change the spud washer and tank bolts you will need to shut off the supply water, and flush the toilet. Now loosen the bolts under the tank that connect to the bowl, usually two sometimes three. Loosen the supply tube and remove. Remove the tank and remove the washer the is at the bottom of the tank, normally a rubber type washer with a spongy feeling. Replace with a new one and put the tank back on the bowl. Tighten the new tank bolts in place, again alternating to keep the tank even. Now too tight or you will crack the tank or the bowl. Put the supply tube back into place and turn on the water. Check for leaks, tighten slightly if there is some. You are done! That's another $150.00 you just saved yourself.
The connection from the supply tube:
This one is easy, simply turn off the water and remove the supply tube. Pick up a new one and put into place, turn on the water and check for leaks. Savings this time $120.00.
Leaking inside the toilet from the tank to the bowl:
This is a very common toilet repair, this is just the seal from inside the tank. Called the flapper. American Standard has their own kind of flapper, but the rest are the same. Put a few drops of food coloring into the tank and wait an hour or two. If there is food coloring in the bowl you know you have a leaky flapper. Buy a universal flapper from the hardware store. Turn off the water, and remove the old flapper. The rubber may be giving off a black film, this will stain your floor so make sure to wrap it up right away. To remove the flapper, take the chain off the lever, and remove the flapper from the two hooks at the bottom of the overflow tube. These hooks are rubber and attached to the flapper. Now install the new one, and turn on the water. Flush the toilet. If the toilet does not flush well you will need to adjust the chain length from the lever to the flapper. Then flush again and you are done! Savings $120.00
Leaking inside the toilet by flowing over the overflow tube:
The second most common toilet repair. If the water is flowing over the overflow tube, or if it is running from the fill valve tube to the overflow tube you need a new fill valve. Fill valves come in two styles, one with the big float ball and arm, the other with the float on the valve itself. Both are interchangeable with each other. Buy a new fill valve. Turn off the water, and disconnect the supply tube. Flush it and sponge out the water in the tank. Loosen the nut under the fill valve on the outside of the tank. Remove the old fill valve. When installing the new one check the height of the fill valve. If you bought the type with the float on the valve you can raise this by twisting the valve. Don't go too high or you will have to start over. Now put the valve into the hole at the bottom of the tank, tighten on the nut on the outside of the tank. Put on the supply tube, and turn on the water. Check for leaks, if need be tight the nut a bit more, being careful not to over tighten. Take the tube that comes with the new valve and connect from the valve to the overflow tube with the connector in the package. This allows the bowl to fill after you flush so that sewer gases do not come up out of the sewer. Savings $130.00
These are the most common toilet repair jobs, there are others just not as common.
To see a free report on toilet repair check Free toilet repair report
Kelly p Kramer is the owner of a plumbing company in Edmonton.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kelly_P_Kramer
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